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The 7 Shocking Secrets Behind 'But Not Today' Perfume: A Deep Dive Into Filippo Sorcinelli's Controversial Scent

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As of December 26, 2025, the conversation around Filippo Sorcinelli’s *But Not Today* Extrait de Parfum remains as intense and polarizing as its scent profile. This is not a fragrance for the faint of heart or those who prefer simple, mass-market appeal; it is a bold, artistic statement from a perfumer known for his dramatic, deeply thematic creations. Launched in 2018, this scent continues to capture the imagination of niche fragrance enthusiasts by daring to be truly different, blending the beautiful with the brutal in a challenging olfactory experience. The perfume, often associated with the UNUM line by Sorcinelli, is a masterclass in conceptual perfumery, drawing inspiration from cinema and the darkest corners of human emotion. It is frequently described as a "violent" fragrance that evolves over time, moving from an aggressive, metallic opening to a complex, leathery, and dusty dry-down. Its enduring popularity stems from its narrative depth and its refusal to conform, making it a must-try for anyone exploring the boundaries of modern niche perfumery.

The Man Behind the Madness: Filippo Sorcinelli's Profile

Filippo Sorcinelli is more than just a perfumer; he is a multi-talented artist whose work spans music, photography, fashion, and haute couture. His approach to fragrance is intrinsically linked to his broader artistic vision, treating each scent as a narrative or a piece of architecture.

  • Full Name: Filippo Sorcinelli
  • Nationality: Italian
  • Primary Professions: Perfumer, Organist, Photographer, Artist, Designer
  • Perfume House: UNUM (and later, his eponymous line, Filippo Sorcinelli)
  • Signature Style: Dramatic, conceptual, dark, and often inspired by sacred art, architecture, or intense emotional states.
  • Notable Collections: SAUF, LAVS, Extrait de Musique, and the *But Not Today* fragrance.
  • Background: Sorcinelli is a professional organist, and his deep understanding of harmony and structure is often cited as influencing the complexity of his fragrance compositions.

The Shocking Inspiration: A Scent of Crime and Passion

The true notoriety of *But Not Today* lies in its provocative and deeply unsettling inspiration. This is where the fragrance transcends mere perfume and becomes a piece of olfactory art designed to elicit a visceral reaction.

1. The Hannibal Lecter Connection

The fragrance is explicitly tied to the chilling world of the "Hannibal" film series, specifically the intense, complex relationship between Clarice Starling and Hannibal Lecter. The line that serves as the conceptual anchor is rumored to be: "Answer me, Clarice: would you tell me to stop, if you love me, stop?". This link immediately positions the perfume as an exploration of dark obsession, passion, and psychological tension.

2. The 'Bloody' and Metallic Accord

Perhaps the most controversial aspect of the scent is its initial "violent" opening, which is often described as metallic and bloody. The perfumer reportedly utilized a shocking 47 different "blood notes" and 15 notes of white lily to achieve the desired effect. This metallic, coppery scent is meant to evoke the immediate aftermath of a crime of passion or a moment of intense, raw danger. It’s a challenging, yet captivating, opening that immediately filters out casual wearers.

3. A Blend of the Sacred and the Profane

While the inspiration is dark, the execution is deeply artistic. Filippo Sorcinelli, with his background in sacred art and music, crafts a scent that is both brutal and beautiful. The initial violence gives way to a complex heart and base, suggesting a narrative arc rather than a static smell. It’s a perfume that wears you, rather than one you wear, haunting and beautiful in its complexity.

Deconstructing the Olfactory Profile: Notes and Evolution

To understand the depth of *But Not Today*, one must look past the shocking headlines and delve into its complex note structure. This Extrait de Parfum is built on a classic three-part architecture, yet utilizes notes in an unconventional manner to achieve its unique "animalic" and "dusty" character.

The Complex Note Breakdown

The official listing from Filippo Sorcinelli divides the fragrance into three movements: Subject, Counter Subject, and Tail, which correspond to the traditional top, middle, and base notes.

  • Subject (Top Notes): The opening is sharp, green, and slightly aromatic, setting the stage for the drama to come. Key elements include bright Bergamot and Lemon, contrasted by the herbaceous bitterness of Artemisia and the clean, calming touch of Lavender. This is where the metallic accord is most pronounced.
  • Counter Subject (Heart Notes): The middle section introduces the spicy, resinous, and medicinal elements that give the perfume its backbone. Notes of spicy Cascarilla, aromatic Rosemary, smoky Styrax, and aquatic Calamus create a dense, almost dusty atmosphere. This blend contributes heavily to the "dark and dusty" quality reviewers often mention.
  • Tail (Base Notes): The dry-down is where the true animalic and earthy depth emerges. The base features the earthy, green intensity of Galbanum, the creamy woodiness of Sandalwood, the rustic bitterness of Oak Moss, and the musky, herbal facet of Angelica. It is this deep, lingering combination that grounds the scent and provides its lasting, leathery appeal.

Why 'But Not Today' Remains a Niche Phenomenon

Despite being released in 2018, *But Not Today* continues to be a highly sought-after and discussed fragrance in 2025, with decants and reviews constantly circulating. Its longevity in the competitive niche market is a testament to its unique qualities and the genius of Filippo Sorcinelli.

A True Animalic Experience

The fragrance is celebrated for its powerful animalic notes, which are not just a whisper but a roar. Reviewers frequently note the presence of Castoreum and other intense animalic facets, giving the scent a primal, untamed quality that is rare in modern perfumery. This bold use of animalic accords is a key differentiator.

Unparalleled Longevity and Projection

As an Extrait de Parfum, *But Not Today* is highly concentrated, ensuring exceptional performance. Users consistently report that the scent is long-lasting and projects significantly, meaning a little goes a very long way. This makes the investment worthwhile for those who love its unique profile.

The Anti-Perfume Appeal

In a world saturated with sweet, floral, and generic designer scents, *But Not Today* offers an "anti-perfume" experience. It’s challenging, unconventional, and defies easy categorization. It is a scent that provokes thought, sparks conversation, and is often described as smelling like "an old home where no one has been living for a while" or a blend of leather and spice. This deliberate move away from the pleasant and into the profound is why it retains its cult following among serious fragrance collectors.

For the connoisseur seeking a fragrance with a genuine narrative, a challenging evolution, and an unforgettable presence, *But Not Today* by Filippo Sorcinelli is an essential, albeit intense, olfactory journey that promises to be anything but ordinary.

The 7 Shocking Secrets Behind 'But Not Today' Perfume: A Deep Dive into Filippo Sorcinelli's Controversial Scent
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