The Cult Legacy Of Raf Simons X Brian Calvin SS13: Why The Artwork Is Still A $5,000 Archive Piece Today

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As of December 23, 2025, the intersection of high fashion and contemporary art remains one of the most powerful forces in the luxury market, and few collaborations define this synergy better than the 2013 partnership between Belgian designer Raf Simons and American painter Brian Calvin. This iconic collection, nearly a decade and a half old, continues to command staggering prices on the archival market, solidifying its status as a foundational moment in modern menswear. The enduring appeal lies not just in the garments, but in the seamless integration of Calvin’s distinctive, sun-drenched, L.A.-centric portraiture with Simons’s minimalist, youth-obsessed aesthetic.

The collaboration for the Spring/Summer 2013 (SS13) collection was a masterclass in translating fine art onto wearable textiles, featuring bold, color-blocked prints of Calvin’s already iconic artwork on everything from oversized tank tops to gradient t-shirts. Today, with Simons co-directing Prada and Calvin continuing his celebrated work in contemporary painting, the SS13 pieces are more than just clothing—they are tangible pieces of fashion history, highly sought after by collectors and fashion historians globally.

The Architects of the Cult: Brian Calvin and Raf Simons Biography

The success of the SS13 collection is rooted in the individual genius and distinct career trajectories of its two creators. Understanding their backgrounds provides essential context for the collection’s lasting cultural impact.

Brian Calvin: The L.A. Youth Chronicler

  • Full Name: Brian Calvin
  • Born: 1969, Visalia, California, USA
  • Primary Medium: Painting (Acrylic on canvas)
  • Artistic Style: Known for his vibrant, stylized, and often fragmented portraits of young women, characterized by large, expressive eyes and a saturated, distinctly Californian color palette. His work explores themes of youth, identity, and the passing of time.
  • Education: BFA from the University of California, Berkeley; MFA from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago.
  • Current Status (2024/2025): Remains an influential contemporary American painter. He held a solo exhibition, "Onwards," in New York (February-March 2024) and is scheduled for gallery appearances in 2025.
  • Key Collaborations: Raf Simons (SS13).

Raf Simons: The Menswear Visionary

  • Full Name: Raf Jan Simons
  • Born: 1968, Neerpelt, Belgium
  • Primary Field: Fashion Design
  • Aesthetic: Defined by a blend of youth subculture (punk, grunge, rave) and high art, often featuring slim, structured tailoring and graphic prints.
  • Education: Studied industrial and furniture design in Genk, Belgium.
  • Career Highlights: Creative Director of Jil Sander (2005–2012), Creative Director of Christian Dior (2012–2015), Chief Creative Officer of Calvin Klein (2016–2018), and Co-Creative Director of Prada (2020–Present).
  • Current Status (2025): Continues as Co-Creative Director of Prada alongside Miuccia Prada. His own brand, while paused, has recently featured in an exclusive archive sale at Dover Street Market Ginza (Dec 2025 - Jan 2026). He also continues his textile partnership with Kvadrat, with the AW 2025-26 collection recently announced.

The SS13 Collection: A Fusion of Art and Grunge

The Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2013 menswear collection, which debuted in Paris, was a pivotal moment for the designer, coming shortly after his appointment as Creative Director at Dior. The collection, which Simons described as being influenced by grunge and the LA artist Brian Calvin, was a vibrant departure from his more austere work.

Simons's vision for SS13 was to explore the intersection of femininity and masculinity, using bold color blocking and astute cuts. The centerpiece, however, was the use of Brian Calvin’s distinctive paintings.

The Iconic Brian Calvin Prints

Calvin’s artwork, which captures the fleeting, often melancholic energy of youth, was translated into large, all-over prints on key pieces. The prints featured the artist's signature close-up portraits of women, rendered with thick outlines, bright colors, and a complex, saturated design that harked back to his Southern California roots.

  • The 'Killer' Tank Top: Perhaps the most recognizable piece, this sleeveless garment featured a full-body print of a portrait, instantly becoming a cult item.
  • The 'Coors' Tee: Another highly sought-after piece, featuring a unique, graphic portrait print.
  • Gradient T-Shirts: The collection also included pieces with smaller, patch-like applications of Calvin's artwork, often set against gradient or color-blocked backgrounds, blending the art into the garment’s structure.

The collaboration was not merely a case of printing a logo; it was an artistic dialogue. Simons chose to portray the artist’s "strange and captivating" array of women, integrating the fine art aesthetic seamlessly into his high-fashion streetwear vision, further cementing his reputation for elevating streetwear on the high fashion runway.

The Archival Afterlife: Why SS13 Pieces Are Still Relevant Today

In the current fashion landscape, where "archival fashion" and "cult pieces" dominate the resale market, the Raf Simons SS13 collaboration with Brian Calvin has become a holy grail for collectors. This enduring relevance is driven by three core factors:

1. Scarcity and Collectability

As with many of Simons’s early collaborations, the SS13 pieces were produced in limited quantities. Items like the 'Killer' Tank Top or the 'Moss' Full Print Sleeveless Tank are rarely seen for sale, and when they are, they attract fierce competition. The rarity of these pieces, combined with the historical weight of the collaboration, drives prices into the thousands of dollars, making them a significant investment.

2. The Enduring Legacy of Simons’s Art Collaborations

Raf Simons has built a career on successful, high-impact artist collaborations, including Sterling Ruby, Peter Saville, and the estates of Robert Mapplethorpe and Andy Warhol. The Brian Calvin SS13 collection is viewed as a crucial chapter in this history, demonstrating Simons's ability to identify and amplify contemporary artistic talent within a commercial framework. This historical context adds immense value to the SS13 garments.

3. Brian Calvin's Continued Success

The continued relevance of Brian Calvin in the contemporary art world ensures that the SS13 pieces retain their cultural currency. With Calvin actively exhibiting new work in 2024 and 2025, his artistic profile remains high. Collectors are not just buying a Raf Simons piece; they are acquiring a wearable Brian Calvin painting from a specific, celebrated moment in time. His continued artistic output keeps the spotlight on his earlier, collaborative works.

Beyond the Collaboration: Raf Simons and Brian Calvin in 2025

While the SS13 collection is a highlight of their shared history, both Simons and Calvin are currently engaged in new, high-profile projects that continue to shape their respective industries, providing fresh context for their past partnership.

Raf Simons, in his role as Co-Creative Director at Prada, continues to influence global luxury fashion, steering the brand’s aesthetic alongside Miuccia Prada. His personal projects, such as the Kvadrat/Raf Simons textile line, demonstrate his ongoing commitment to design beyond the runway, with the new AW 2025-26 collection adding new textiles and objects for children, like teddy bears.

Brian Calvin’s focus remains on his painting career. His recent solo exhibitions, such as "Onwards," showcase his evolution as an artist, maintaining his signature style while exploring new depths in his portraiture. The high demand for his canvases in major galleries and art fairs confirms his status as a leading figure in contemporary painting, making the SS13 collaboration a unique entry point for art collectors into the world of fashion.

The archival status of the Raf Simons x Brian Calvin SS13 collection is a testament to the power of a genuine, well-executed artistic partnership. It is a reminder that the most enduring pieces in fashion are those that transcend mere trend, becoming cultural artifacts that connect the worlds of art, youth culture, and high design.

raf simons brian calvin
raf simons brian calvin

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